The science behind what we make.

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Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane and the smallest AHA molecule by weight — a property that allows it to penetrate the skin barrier more effectively than any other AHA. At the surface, it disrupts the bonds between dead skin cells, accelerating their shedding and revealing the fresher, younger cells beneath.

At clinical concentrations, glycolic acid stimulates fibroblast activity — increasing collagen and elastin production. Over time, consistent use improves skin texture, softens fine lines, and reduces the visibility of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is one of the most studied actives in professional skincare literature.

Key benefits

• Cell renewal acceleration
• Collagen stimulation
• Hyperpigmentation reduction

In Glo formulations:

Concentration and pH are everything with glycolic acid. Professional-grade formulations (20–70%) are for in-clinic use only. Glo's at-home range is formulated at skin-appropriate concentrations with buffering agents to maximise efficacy while maintaining tolerability.

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Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from fermentation — historically from milk, now predominantly from fermented plant sources for vegan-compliant formulations. Its larger molecular structure compared to glycolic acid means slower, more controlled penetration: effective exfoliation with a significantly lower risk of irritation.

Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid is also a natural component of the skin's Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) — the collection of humectants that keep the barrier hydrated and intact. This dual action — exfoliating and simultaneously supporting barrier hydration — makes it particularly well-suited for dry skin, sensitive skin, and post-procedure protocols where barrier preservation is a clinical priority.

Key benefits

• Gentle AHA exfoliation
• Barrier hydration support
• Suitable for sensitive and reactive skin

In Glo formulations:

Lactic acid's tolerability profile makes it the appropriate choice for patients new to chemical exfoliation and for post-procedure home care, where a milder acid reduces recovery disruption. Glo formulates lactic acid alongside barrier-supporting actives to maximise this combination effect.

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Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is one of the most clinically validated actives in skincare. As a powerful antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals — the unstable molecules generated by UV radiation, pollution, and metabolic processes that degrade collagen and accelerate visible ageing.

Vitamin C is also a co-factor in collagen biosynthesis: without adequate ascorbic acid, fibroblasts cannot produce functional collagen. It inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme pathway, reducing melanin production and progressively brightening existing hyperpigmentation. The challenge is stability — Vitamin C oxidises rapidly on exposure to air and light. Glo uses stabilised Vitamin C forms in formulations designed to maintain potency from production to application.

Key benefits

• Free radical neutralisation
• Collagen synthesis support
• Hyperpigmentation brightening

In Glo formulations:

Stabilisation matters enormously with Vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid is the most bioactive form but the least stable. Glo uses encapsulation and complementary antioxidants to maintain efficacy throughout shelf life. Vitamin C formulations are always paired with SPF guidance — the antioxidant protection it provides is only meaningful when daily UV exposure is also managed.

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Epidermal Growth Factor is a naturally occurring signalling protein — specifically, a polypeptide that binds to EGF receptors on skin cell surfaces and triggers a cascade of cellular activity including proliferation, migration, and differentiation. In plain terms: it tells skin cells to repair, renew, and regenerate. EGF was first characterised by biochemist Stanley Cohen, work for which Cohen was awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine in 1986.

In professional skincare, EGF has been studied extensively for its ability to improve skin firmness, reduce fine lines, and accelerate post-procedure healing. The EGF used in Glo formulations is synthetic bioidentical — produced in a controlled laboratory environment to replicate the precise molecular structure of naturally occurring EGF, without any animal-derived sources. It sits at the centre of Glo's current product strategy.

Key benefits

• Cell renewal and regeneration signalling
• Measurable firming and texture improvement
• Post-procedure recovery support

In Glo formulations:

EGF is highly active but requires precise formulation conditions — pH, temperature, and complementary ingredients all affect its stability and receptor binding. Glo's EGF Drops Serum delivers bioidentical EGF alongside a precision complex of peptides, niacinamide, and barrier-supporting actives for a clinically considered delivery system.

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Retinol is a form of Vitamin A — one of the most extensively studied skincare actives in existence. Applied topically, retinol is converted by the skin to retinoic acid, its active metabolite, which binds to nuclear receptors in skin cells and directly influences gene expression. The result is accelerated cell turnover, increased collagen synthesis, and reduced matrix metalloproteinase activity — the enzymes that break down the collagen structure already present in the skin.

No other non-prescription skincare active has as large a body of clinical evidence behind it as retinol. It visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin texture and tone, minimises pore appearance, and addresses congestion through its normalising effect on cell turnover in the follicular lining. Professional-grade retinol formulations require a tolerance-building protocol — Glo's clinic protocols include a graduated introduction programme and patient education materials as standard.

Key benefits

• Cell turnover acceleration
• Collagen preservation and synthesis
• Fine line, pore, and texture refinement

In Glo formulations:

Retinol is photosensitive and should be used in evening protocols only. Glo uses encapsulation technology to reduce oxidation and improve tolerability at clinical concentrations. SPF is non-negotiable during retinol use — Glo's clinic protocols include this as a standard patient communication point, not an optional add-on.

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Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) — the key structural difference from AHAs being that its hydroxyl group is positioned two carbons from the carboxyl group rather than one. This makes it oil-soluble, enabling it to penetrate the lipid-rich environment of the sebaceous follicle where AHAs cannot reach. Inside the pore, salicylic acid dissolves the compacted sebum and dead cell debris that cause blackheads, congestion, and non-inflammatory breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also anti-inflammatory — a property linked to its structural relationship to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid). This makes it uniquely valuable in acne-prone skin, where it exfoliates, decongests, and calms simultaneously. At higher clinical concentrations, salicylic acid is used as a keratolytic peel for seborrhoeic dermatitis and severe congestion, applied in-clinic by trained professionals.

Key benefits

• Pore decongestion and blackhead dissolution
• Anti-inflammatory action
• Oily and acne-prone skin clarification

In Glo formulations:

Salicylic acid is most effective at a pH below 3.5, but skin tolerability requires careful pH management across the full product system. Glo's BHA formulations are pH-optimised for efficacy at concentrations appropriate for daily at-home use, alongside higher-concentration peel formulations for in-clinic application.

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Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan — a polysaccharide that forms a key component of the skin's extracellular matrix. Its primary function is hydration: HA molecules can bind up to 1,000 times their own weight in water, maintaining the skin's volume, plumpness, and structural integrity. Healthy skin produces HA abundantly; production declines with age and UV exposure, directly contributing to the loss of skin volume and elasticity.

The clinical effectiveness of topical HA depends substantially on molecular weight. High molecular weight HA sits at the skin surface, forming a moisture-sealing film. Low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper into the epidermis, delivering hydration where it is needed most. Multi-weight HA formulations address both surface moisture and deeper dermal hydration simultaneously — a more clinically sophisticated approach than single-weight products.

Key benefits

• Multi-depth hydration delivery
• Volume and plumpness restoration
• Barrier function reinforcement

In Glo formulations:

Glo formulates hyaluronic acid using multiple molecular weights for layered hydration delivery. HA performs best when applied to slightly damp skin — this technique is included as standard in Glo Pro patient protocol guides.

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Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds (Prunus dulcis amara). At approximately 152 Daltons, it has the largest molecular weight of any commonly used AHA — meaning the slowest, most controlled penetration rate into the skin. This slow absorption makes it the most gentle AHA exfoliant available, with a significantly lower risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) compared to glycolic or lactic acid at equivalent concentrations.

The tolerability of mandelic acid makes it particularly well-suited to skin of colour (Fitzpatrick types III–VI), where aggressive exfoliation can paradoxically worsen hyperpigmentation through PIH. Mandelic acid also has documented antibacterial properties, contributing a mild anti-acne benefit alongside its exfoliating and brightening action — making it relevant across a broader range of skin concerns than exfoliation alone.

Key benefits

• Gentle exfoliation suitable for all Fitzpatrick types
• Lower PIH risk than glycolic or lactic acid
• Antibacterial secondary benefit

In Glo formulations:

Mandelic acid works well in combination protocols — alternating with glycolic acid for patients who want progressive exfoliation depth, or used as the sole AHA for sensitive, reactive, or melanin-rich skin. Glo's professional peel range includes mandelic acid as part of its clinical back bar portfolio.

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Alpha arbutin is a naturally derived compound found in the leaves of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) and several other plants. It functions as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase — the enzyme that catalyses the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. By occupying the tyrosinase active site, alpha arbutin prevents new melanin formation, progressively lightening areas of existing hyperpigmentation without disrupting surrounding skin.

Alpha arbutin is considered a more stable and better-tolerated brightening agent than hydroquinone — the conventional melanin inhibitor, which carries regulatory restrictions in the UK due to potential toxicity concerns at sustained high concentrations. Alpha arbutin provides comparable tyrosinase inhibition with a significantly safer tolerability profile, and is well-tolerated across all skin types and Fitzpatrick classifications.

Key benefits

• Tyrosinase-inhibited melanin suppression
• Progressive hyperpigmentation reduction
• Suitable for all Fitzpatrick types

In Glo formulations:

Alpha arbutin is most effective when formulated at 1–2% in appropriate pH conditions. It performs synergistically with Vitamin C (a complementary melanin pathway inhibitor) and AHAs (which accelerate surface cell turnover to reveal brightened skin faster). Glo's brightening range combines these actives in a layered protocol system.

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Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of all proteins, including the structural proteins (collagen, elastin, fibronectin) that give skin its firmness and resilience. In the context of skincare, topical peptides are designed to interact with skin cells' signalling pathways. Signal peptides — such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — mimic the fragments of degraded collagen that naturally trigger the skin's repair response, effectively communicating to fibroblasts that structural protein has been lost and needs replacing.

Peptide science has expanded significantly in the past decade. Beyond signal peptides, carrier peptides (such as copper peptides — GHK-Cu) deliver trace minerals to the dermis that are essential co-factors for collagen formation. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides reduce the repeated muscular contractions that etch expression lines over time. Each peptide class acts on a different biological pathway — the most clinically effective formulations combine multiple peptide types for a broader, multi-mechanism anti-ageing effect.

Key benefits

• Collagen and elastin synthesis stimulation
• Expression line reduction
• Comprehensive skin repair signalling

In Glo formulations:

Peptides are sensitive to formulation conditions — they must be incorporated at low temperatures and at appropriate pH to remain structurally active. Glo's peptide formulations are designed around the specific stability requirements of each peptide class, with complementary actives selected to maximise each peptide's pathway without interference.

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Bio-fermentation is not a single ingredient — it is a formulation process. Beneficial microorganisms (typically bacteria or yeast strains such as Lactobacillus, Saccharomyces, or Galactomyces ferment) metabolise and transform raw ingredients into bioactive compounds with enhanced skin bioavailability. Fermentation breaks large molecules into smaller, more permeable fragments, increases antioxidant activity through the generation of new metabolites, and produces pre- and probiotic components that actively support the skin's microbiome.

The skin microbiome — the community of microorganisms that live on the skin surface — plays a critical role in barrier function, immune signalling, and protection against pathogenic bacteria. Fermented ingredients applied topically support microbiome balance, helping to calm inflammatory skin conditions and reinforce barrier integrity. Galactomyces ferment filtrate in particular is associated with brightening, sebum regulation, and measurable pore refinement in clinical studies.

Key benefits

• Enhanced ingredient bioavailability through fermentation
• Skin microbiome support
• Pre/probiotic anti-inflammatory and barrier-reinforcing benefit

In Glo formulations:

Glo incorporates bio-fermentation as a formulation philosophy across multiple product categories — from serums to toners. Fermentation-enhanced delivery is used to increase the penetration efficacy of core actives and to introduce microbiome-supportive components that complement Glo's clinical active approach.

Explore the Glo skincare range →

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Glo Skin Beauty launched in 2000 with two professional lines — Glo Therapeutics (clinical skincare) and Glo Minerals (mineral makeup). Glo Minerals was one of the first complete professional mineral makeup lines to reach market. Mineral makeup is built around mineral-derived pigments: mica (luminosity and texture), iron oxides (warm and cool pigment tones), titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide. These mineral pigments are non-comedogenic, sit on the skin surface rather than penetrating the follicle, and are inherently free from the sensitising agents present in many synthetic dye-based formulations.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in mineral foundations provide a physical (non-chemical) UV filter — a meaningful daily sun protection benefit for any patient. Zinc oxide's additional anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties make the Glo Minerals range particularly suited to post-procedure skin, where minimising irritation and microbial risk is clinically significant. Glo Pro clinics routinely use the Glo Minerals range as part of post-procedure patient care — including after chemical peels, laser, and microneedling sessions.

Key benefits

• Non-comedogenic, post-procedure safe formulations
• Physical UV filtration (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide)
• Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial zinc oxide benefit

In Glo formulations:

Glo's mineral makeup range is not a cosmetic afterthought — it was one of the two founding lines of the brand and is developed with the same clean formulation standards as the skincare range. Synthetic dyes, talc, artificial fragrance, and other sensitising agents excluded from Glo skincare are equally absent from Glo Minerals.

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